Are you looking for the matching bind-off for tubular cast-on? You started your sweater with the tubular cast-on and now you want to finish the cuffs so that the edge looks exactly the same as the cast-on? The tubular bind-off is the solution. I’ll show you how to do that.
The tubular bind-off is identical to the tubular cast-on. The result is a very stretchy, elastic and smooth edge. This methode is used for finishing ribbing. There is no real edge to see – the ribbed stitches just seem to roll over the edge. This is a good way to finish parts that are subject to high elongation, such as turtlenecks, socks and cuffs. Ideal for cases where the cast-on and bind-off edge should look exactly the same.
- additional knitting needle, in the same size or smaller. If you work in rows a double-pointed or circular needle and if you work in rounds, an additional circular needle.
- tapestry needle
The tubular bind-off is worked in two steps: first, the stitches are prepared over four rows or rounds so that they can be sewn off in the second step.
1. How to prepare the tubular bind-off
Work k1, p1 ribbing to 2 rows or rounds less than the desired length.
TIP: In the example shown here I use the k1, p1 rib pattern. The tubular bind-off is also possible for the k2, p2 rib pattern. But for this you need to “cheat”. The number of stitches must be divisible by 4. Work the ribbing to 2 rows or rounds less than the desired length.
Knit 1, purl 1. Then knit from the front in the second stitch on the left needle and leave it on the needle.
Purl the first stitch on the left needle and slide the two stitches off the needle.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 continuously. Finally, cross the selvedge stitch.
After “cheating”, continue as for the k1, p1 rib pattern with step 2.
Working in rows:
Knit each knit stitch and slip each purl stitch, with yarn in front.
Repeat step 2 for 3 more rows.
Working in rounds:
Rnd 1: Knit each knit stitch and slip each purl stitch, with yarn in front.
Rnd 2: Slip with yarn in back each knit stitch and purl each purl stitch.
Repeat rnd 1 and 2 once more.
Hold the two empty double-pointed or circular needles in your right hand and your knitting in your left hand. In this step, you separate the knit and purl stitches. To do so, transfer the stitches, one at a time, to the new needles, alternating knit and purl stitches, with the knit going to the front needle and the purl going to the back needle. Slip all stitches purlwise.
Graft stitches together using the kitchener stitch.
2. How to work the Kitchener Stitch
When grafting opposite open stitches that have not been binded off, sew together. This is usually used for toes on socks or shoulder stitches. Or, like here, the tubular bind-off.
You need the same number of stitches on both needles.
Cut the thread. It should be at least three times as long as the piece you want to bind off. The end of the thread should be on the right side. Thread it through the tapestry needle.
Insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the front needle as if to purl and pull the yarn through. Leave the stitch on the needle.
Insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit and pull the yarn through. Leave the stitch on the needle.
On the front needle, insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch knitwise and slip the stitch off the needle.
Insert the tapestry needle through the next stitch purlwise through the next stitch purlwise and leave it on the needle.
On the back needle, insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch purlwise and slip the stitch off the needle.
Insert the tapestry needle through the next stitch knitwise and leave the stitch on the needle.
Repeat steps 4-7 until all stitches have been worked. You will have 1 stitch left on the back needle; go through with the thread purlwise and weave the end in.